A Speck on the Map, Outsized Value

Jasnière might not be a household name for Chenin Blanc compared to neighboring appellations like Vouvray, Saumur, or Montlouis — it’s barely a speck on the map, with just 65 hectares of vines in the entire appellation — but it’s just the sort of place to find outsized value from dedicated winemakers. Go back 30 or 40 years, and it was thought of as a cooler, more marginal appellation, with leaner, high-acid wines than other parts of the Loire. However, Jasnière is one place quietly benefiting from the trend of warmer vintages — it’s still Chenins Blanc with all the verve and vibrancy it’s known for, with a beautiful ripeness and roundness on the palate.

We first came across Domaine Lelais about three years ago, meeting with third-generation winemaker Claire Lelais. Her family winery goes back to the 1960’s, and they own a remarkable 14 hectares of organically farmed vineyard in Jasnières. She keeps a light touch in the cellars, with fermentation in tank at cool temperatures, and bottles the wine in the spring to capture the lively fruit and crisp acidity of Chenin.

When Dan visited them earlier this year to check in on the latest vintage, I got this text from him: "Damn, that stuff is good — let’s buy as much as we can.”

It was an easy call. This wine is exactly the type of refreshing and easy drinking wine you’ll want to keep as much around as you can.

Domaine Lelais

‘Le Tradition’ Jasnières 2024

Chenin Blanc is one of the most versatile white grapes in the world — and Jasnières is one of the most vibrant and electric expression of the grape anywhere I’ve come across. Domaine Lelais’s ‘Le Tradition’ is bone dry, with electric acidity and a bouquet of pithy yellow citrus and white blossoms, followed by apricot, white peach and pear on the palate. Try it with seafood (a bowl of mussels, maybe), a lemon-y pasta, or a salad topped with fresh chèvre, as is common in the region — it's a classic pairing for good reason.