Piedmont Barbera
Today we return to the single most popular variety we import: Barbera. The grape variety has taken on a life of its own in our little importing world, and for good reason--it makes a wine that in many ways has it all. Let’s recap:
There's no bad time to pop one
They don't break the bank
They're largely made without new oak
You'll almost always find something juicy, generous, and fruit-forward
It's what the locals in Piedmont drink
That last point is something we always try to take note of. There are a lot of wines out there made to look, sound, feel and taste impressive and expensive for the “international markets”. It’s a tired old formula; over-ripe fruit, lots of new oak, heavy bottle, glitzy label etc. The problem is, enjoying those impressive wines can be tiresome too. Here’s where Barbera comes in - known as the "people wine” - it is made to be put on the table, with tons for freshness and grape-y delight. It’s ready when you are, no matter what is on the menu.
And when we needed to restock our warehouse full of Barbera, there was an obvious starting point, a true specialist and master of the grape: La Casaccia
Standing proudly in the center of the tiny village of Cella Monte is La Casaccia—roughly translated as “the Broken-down Little House”, though by most people's standards, quite a grand old building. Due to the inventive, unflagging upkeep of Giovanni Rava, his wife Elena, and their son and daughter Marcello and Margherita, this centuries-old home has been cared for, modernized, and brought to life. The expansive underground cellars have been tricked out with Giovanni’s practical inventions to make work easier. Plus, they converted their 6 hectares of vineyards to organic farming, without use of pesticides since 2000.
I was reminded of the family's bold spirit after reaching out to Margherita recently about an order, and she sent me back a quick note about this past vintage.
“Harvest is always a joyful time of the year and we like to share it with family and friends...
It has been a very challenging year, starting from the heavy and continuous rains we had in May and June, until the middle of July. It was raining almost every other day…The result is that we had very low production…This season has been the most challenging one since we started in 2001!
… We hope in very expressive wines that we can transmit to consumers our hard work and our “never give up” attitude that we kept to approach the challenge.”
Even in the face of difficult vintages, everything at La Casaccia is filled with good energy, and the magic of that positive energy is captured in every bottle of utterly delicious Barbera they make. I'm pretty excited about these two Barberas, and I am guessing you are too.
La Casaccia Barbera Giuanin 2022
Made in stainless steel tanks to keep it lively, generous, and engaging. The kind of wine that makes friends with everything on the table. I love the pure, concentrated grapey-ness and the sneaky complexity. Giovanni insists this isn't a wine to just sit around quaffing, preferring it instead with Elena's homemade tortellini, or a nice roast.
La Casaccia Barbera del Monferrato Bricco del Boschi 2019
The big brother to Giuanin, aged for two years in large upright botti--huge, old wooden upright casks that hold a few thousand liters of juice--and 2 years in bottle, for an elegant and supple texture and added layer of complexity. Truly something special.
Both wines are marvelous examples of Piedmontese Barbera, whether you prefer the pure fruit of the Giuanin, or the richer layered quality of the Bricco del Boschi.