EXPLORING THE NOOKS AND CRANNIES OF THE RHONE
The Rhône Valley is a massive wine-growing region, second only to Bordeaux in volume of production. The herbal scent of garrigue, the chirp of the cicadas, and vineyards are omnipresent. The region is dominated by large vineyard operations, huge brands, and village cooperatives. Which makes our job--discovering the worthwhile wines--a monumental task. We wanted to know: Where are all the family-run wineries?
Many small growers still bring their entire harvest to the local co-op, out of convenience and expediency. It’s an old system, allowing growers to avoid costly investment in equipment, and growers with poorer quality grapes a guaranteed payday for their harvest. But then, there is no incentive for growers to improve their farming--their grapes are simply blended away into the lowest common denominator.
The end result is too much anonymous red wine stocking the bottom shelf of grocery stores. And it’s a shame, because the Rhône is a wonderfully varied place, full of hardworking vignerons, with unique vineyards and microclimates. Fortunately, we knew who to turn to for help finding growers like that.
It was Laureline Jacaumin, of L’Or de Line in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, who got us pointed in the right direction. Aside from running the family winery full-time, she has also built a small négociant, promoting like-minded, independent family wineries, working organically in the region.
Her company, Osmose, promotes the kind of small growers we love, who have decided to showcase their superlative properties instead of hiding their light under a bushel. When I saw her earlier this year, she introduced us to a few of them doing great work in unique corners of the Rhône.
Today, we have two that really caught our attention: one from the slopes of Mont Ventoux, and another from the village of Rasteau, made with the kind of care and specificity that is sadly all too rare in the region.
• 'CLOS FAYARD' VENTOUX 2021 •
Domaine Lou Magnan is a producer truly going against the grain of his appellation. The Ventoux is mostly seen as a vinous backwater, producing uninspired wines. Yet this cuvée, from a single plot, high on the slopes of the famous Mont Ventoux (a frequent mountain stage on the Tour de France), is anything but! The Clos Fayard is a small 2.5-hectare site, its altitude moderating the hot growing season and maintaining freshness in the wine, resulting in one of the most distinctive wines of the appellation.
A blend of 50% Syrah, 30% Grenache, with the remaining 20% split between Mourvèdre and Carignan. Together, they created a round, powerful wine with aromas of blackcurrant and wild strawberries, with licorice and peppery notes on the tongue, and harmonious tannins for a satiny finish.
• RASTEAU 2023 •
Domaine la Font de Notre Dame is located at the base of the distinctive Dentelles de Montmirail, in the village of Gigondas. Two brothers, Frédéric et Boris Roux, manage the family property. Their collection of vineyards includes a small site, well off the valley floor at 350 meters, in the nearby village of Rasteau. Once appended to the Côtes-du-Rhône Villages appellation, Rasteau, since 2009, is now its own distinct AOC. This wine is a prime example of the outstanding qualities of the village.
Wow! Right out of the gate, this is a rich, opaque liquid that is inviting and powerful at the same time. Composed of 75% Grenache noir, 20% Mourvèdre, and 5% Cinsault. Notes of dark fruit and menthol on the nose, followed by black plum, dried fig, and spice on the palate. A silky texture, with a finish of freshness that will sustain you through a meal. This would cellar nicely for 4-6 years.
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These two wines are currently in stock in the warehouse, and it's a good thing too. With Fall officially here, and roasts and stews on the way to the menu, I'm sure you'll find these both a wonderful accompaniment to the chilly evenings and hearty food.