If I was Jesus, this is what I would turn water into
I was two wines into the tasting, when I nearly choked on what I was sipping. I was enjoying the wines — they were extraordinary — it was the winemaker’s comment caught me off guard.
“If I was Jesus, this is what I would turn water into.”
I had never contemplated what variety Jesus selected for his miracle transformation of water, but in that moment, I couldn’t argue — what I was tasting was fit for wedding feast, at Cana or anywhere.
I had come to the Marche looking for Verdicchio like this. A singular white variety, rarely found outside this quiet and out of the way province on Italy’s central Adriatic coast. With no major cities, and dramatic mountainous terrain, it’s not easy to get around, and not usually on anyone’s vacation itinerary. But tucked up in the mountains, sheltered from the coastal winds, Verdicchio thrives, making wines equally perfumed and full of tension.
And right in the heart of the Marche was Umberto Gagliardi, a tall, lanky Italian, with flowing hair down to his shoulders, who would not look out of place on a surfboard in Southern California. His tan is more due to time in the vineyards, and his well earned confidence comes from the over 30 years of growing and making wine, since he took over from his father in 1993.
The visit started with a tour around the outskirts of Matelica, an ancient town of about 9000 inhabitants, far from the coast. As soon as I arrived he ushered me into his own car for a tour of the three vineyards he farms, forming a triangle around the town, each with different exposure, altitude and soils. Umberto farms a total of 12 hectares organically, about two thirds of that dedicated to Verdicchio, with vines as old as 55 years old.
After taking over from his father, he pushed the winery to produce ever higher quality wines. While Verdicchio di Matelica already enjoyed strong reputation, he was the first producer to bottle a Riserva, when the new DOCG was introduced in 2010. He even showed me the first bottle - with serial number 000001 on its tax label. He continues to experiment with fermentation vessels and techniques, refining his farming, with his daughter, Alessandra, now working alongside him. All that work has yielded an extremely fine result — a Verdicchio that is pure, vibrant and electric, and for me, simply the finest expression of white wine in Italy I have come across.
Verdicchio di Matelica ‘A Modo’ 2025
*Pre-Arrival offer
Rarely do you come across something you’re looking for, and all your expectations are exceeded. Verdicchio always intrigued me for its potential to be remarkable, but so many examples left me wanting — but Umberto’s flagship wine left me nearly speechless. The name A Modo means “In the style of,” as in: this is what Verdicchio from Matelica should taste like. As such, it is composed from all three of his vineyards surrounding the town of Matelica, combining the different exposures, elevations and soils to produce a complete picture of this appellation and grape.
Fermented in stainless steel, and bottled fresh, it manages to capture the taut, edgy, flinty-ness of the surrounding mountains, while preserving the enticing aromas of melon, golden apple, and yellow fruit on the nose. This is refreshingly dry, full of texture, and electric with energy.
Verdicchio di Matelica Riserva ‘Maccagnano’ 2024
Umberto’s Riserva, Maccagnano, was the very first Verdicchio di Matelica Riserva when the DOCG was issued in 2010. It continues to be a standout, both among his wines, and his peers. The DOCG requires a minimum of 2 years in the cellar, in addition to restricting the yields in the vineyards. Beyond that, Umberto carefully selects lots that represent the best of what he does, and is not shy about recommending you tuck away a bottle or two in the cellar for aging. He’s confident that they will hold up and mature on par with any world class chardonnay.
A similar aromatic profile to the A Modo — honeydew, stone fruit, golden apple — but deeper and more complex, and a hint of pink peppercorn. The palate is relaxed and inviting, with a rich body, yet remains steely on the finish. Yes, this is the wine I nearly choked on — what Umberto has transformed from his land — fit for a wedding feast.
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It was a few days after my visit to Gagliardi, I was speaking with another winemaker, who stated that Verdicchio is without question the finest white wine Italy produces. Playing devil’s advocate, I challenged him gently with a few other varieties; Garganega? Vermentino? Arneis? Greco?
No… not even close. Why? It is precise, expressive, and can age… it has energy, he explained.
Of course, after tasting Umberto’s wines, I wasn’t going to disagree. This is the lead offer on our upcoming container from Italy, and these two wines are something I’ve been itching to tell you all about since my visit back in May. I’m looking forward to stashing some bottles in the cellar for the fall, and I’d urge you to do the same.