Manzon Bianco: A mountain breeze for your palate
Hey Cru,
I hope you’re enjoying this fine summer weekend, wherever you are and whatever you are doing. Personally, I’ve been trying to spend as much time outdoors as possible, with friends and family, a chilled glass of something refreshing close at hand…
Which leads me to today’s note. Look, I wanted to keep it brief for the weekend…a quick description about why you might want to pick up a bottle or two from today's offer. The trouble is, this wine is just too darn intriguing to describe with just a few dozen words. Here are just some bullet points to start:
Manzoni Bianco is a crossing, bred by Professor Luigi Manzioni at the enological school in Conegliano back in the 1930’s.
There are less then 10,000 hectares of Manzoni planted in Italy; that’s less than 1 percent of all the vines in Italy
A cross between Riesling (German) and Pinot Blanc (French), yet it is a uniquely Italian variety, not really planted outside the country
I first learned about grape crossings in South Africa, where the locals are extremely proud of Pinotage -- a crossing of Pinot Noir and Cinsault, bred for its heartiness in the warm sun of the Western Cape. A crossing is when both parent plants belong to the same species (Vitis Vinifera), different from a hybrid, where two different species are inter-bred. Perhaps the most well-known crossing is Cabernet Sauvignon, which occurred naturally from cross pollination of Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc. And perhaps you’re familiar with Müller-Thurgau (Riesling x Madeleine Royale) too.
But I had never heard of Manzoni Bianco before. Not until I encountered the sublime wines of Maso Thaler from the Alto-Adige. The variety was bred to deal with the cool climate of Northeastern Italy’s Trentino region, and the myriad disease pressures found in the high-elevation growing region. An elegant marriage of Riesling and Pinot Blanc, Manzoni is well suited to the marginal climate, and the results are truly the best of both worlds: the explosive aromatics of Riesling and the inviting texture of Pinot Blanc.
Of course, in the hands of masters such as Filippo and Francesco Motta, I would expect nothing less. Their vineyard, at 650 meters above sea level, produces elegant pinot noir and ethereal chardonnay…but their Manzoni Bianco is something else altogether. Just a small fraction of their 3.5 hectare farm is planted with this variety, but they continue to nurture it, year after year.
The nose is aromatic, subtle and elegant, with tones of peach, apple, and tropical fruit, with a flowery bouquet. The taste is savory and mineral. And yes, this is a dry wine through and through. Don't let the mention of Riesling turn you off.
Is it intensely aromatic? Is it fruit forward? Yes and yes. Is it sweet? Emphatically, NO.
On our most recent visit, Dan and I were treated to a taste of the 2012 Manzoni Bianco from the Maso Thaler cellar. Suffice to say, we were all enthralled by the energy and elegance retained in the wine after 12 years in the bottle. Truely an impresive wine at any age!