Muscadet: Paradise in the glass
A few weeks ago, we introduced you to Domaine Delaunay, run by a pair of energetic young brothers, Florent and Thomas. While that offer was for their lip-smacking Sauvignon Blanc (there is still some available, and it is in the warehouse now BTW!), the Delaunay brothers primary focus is Muscadet. And boy, do they know what they are doing!
They bottle several different sites from their various holdings of vineyards, but what we have on offer today struck the sweet spot for Dan & I - refreshing and light on its feet, but also succulent and substantive - every sip of this is a delight, and it is appropriately called Le Clos du Paradis!
Dan and I met the Delaunay brothers a year ago, while on the lookout for some exceptional Muscadet. If you know anything about Muscadet, you know its made from the Melon de Bourgogne grape, and that finding an good one, let along something special, is like searching for a needle in a haystack. You see, more AOC Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine is produced annually than any other AOC in the entire Loire Valley. And there is a lot of wine made in the Loire valley.
Most of this Muscadet is made on an industrial scale, farmed for volume, and vinified in huge tank-farms, resulting in a largely bland, characterless liquid. For decades, Muscadet had a well earned reputation for being homogenous and simple.
But in recent years, ambitious vineyard owners had been working on reviving the regions reputation. Starting with improvements in farming, lowering yields to focus on quality, followed by patience and precision in the cellar. It may sound simple, but that doesn’t mean its obvious, or common.
Enter Domaine Delaunay. After a few years out in “the real world”, Florent returned to the family vineyard. For three years he worked alongside his father, then began the arduous task of converting the vineyards to organic farming. In 2020 he took the reins, and was soon joined by his younger brother, Thomas, in running the family business. The pair share the same combination of dedication, curiosity and appreciation for life.
As pulled up to their unassuming barn-like winery, they stopped to take a break from bottling their latest vintage. Despite the tiring physical work, their eyes lit up as they cleared a table and began pouring wine. Before we knew it, Florent was giving us a masterclass on the region, from the geology, and the introduction of Melon de Bourgogne to the region, to the benefits of aging the wine sur lie, and the merits of underground tanks. We quickly understood, this was someone who cared deeply about what he was making - and the wines he was pouring were anything but characterless.
Domaine Delaunay
• ‘Clos Paradis’ Muscadet Sevre et Maine •
A star among the family’s vineyards, "Le Clos du Paradis" is a 4 hectare parcel on a well exposed south-facing slope of schist and quartz based soils. Florent decided to hold this wine in tank on its lees for 18 months, twice as long as typical for “sur lies” aging. But taste the results, and you’ll see why his patience is rewarded; a richness and creamy texture reminiscent of a fine Chablis (for a fraction of the price!)
In the glass, you’ll see a golden hue, and your nose will be greeted by a rainbow of scents, from autumn apples, meyer lemons, ripe stone fruit, and honey on toast. On the palate it is elegant, layered and supple with a dry mineral finish. Paradise in a glass!
As you can guess, we think this is a special wines - validation that there is exceptional Muscadet out there. And now its here, ready to chill down and pour with alongside your next plate of seafood, grilled fish, summer vegetables... whatever you have going on.