Notes from the Road: Sweet Sicilian Comfort

Ciao Cru,

I’ve landed in Sicily, and was greeted by the iconic and imposing Mount Etna. Here on the eastern side of the island, it seems to always be in view. As I’m writing, I’m sitting in the shadow of this volcano, as the sun sets behind it, and the breeze from the ocean transitions the warm spring day into a chilly May evening.

Even down the road, in Syracusa, the mountain can be seen, but then the calming presence of the sea takes over, and the threat of disaster feels safely in the distance. It’s perhaps why Emperor Frederick II chose this place to build a retreat, of sorts.

Cantine Pupillo occupies the 13th century Castello del Solacium, Frederick’s seaside estate, where he retreated from the politics of the royal court in Palermo. Solaciummeans comfort in Latin, and thats just what this place is; a nerve-calming, peaceful landscape filled with the music of birdsong and a refreshing salt-scented breeze.

The Sicilians are very good at comfort. From the sweet, icy granita and pillowy brioche that constitute breakfast, or the warm ricotta filled pastries and soothing pistachio gelato the locals snack on during their evening passeggiata, comfort is always close at hand.

Here is another treat to bring you comfort from this sunny island — a labor intensive tradition that has been passed down, but now rarely produced: Passito

Cantine Pupillo

‘Solacium’ 2022

Carmela Pupillo may be the only producer here that still makes this traditional sweet wine by drying grapes on the vine. It’s a risky technique that involves giving each bunch a twist at the stem, cutting off the flow of sap to the grapes, while leaving them to hang in the sun and dry out, concentrating the flavors and sugars. If the birds don’t get at all the berries, you're left with a meager but precious liquid, a distillation of the intense and explosive Muscat flavors.

Carmella doesn’t make much of this liquid gold, and not every vintage. Yet, continuing the legacy of this centuries old tradition is worth the risk and the effort.

I don’t drink a lot of sweet wines — they are reserved for special occasions and gatherings. But this bottle represents some one of the most remarkable and pleasurable styles of wine out there. Yes, it is sweet, but the acidity remains present keeping this from being tiring, and the concentrated flavors evolve from moment to moment: baked apricot tart, marzipan, honeysuckle, gardenia, marmelade… and on and on. 

We have just 24 bottles of the precious liquid in the warehouse, and I encourage you to pick up a bottle and open it up with friends. Enjoy it with a cheese platter, or with a simple dessert like butter cookies, olive oil cake, or even on its own.