The Full Picture from Sanzay
Dan and I were sitting at a long wooden table, in a light filled room, scanning our notes about the hoard of bottles in front of us. We had been there at least two hours, and the realization hit us undeniably; we were not just looking at one or two good bottles — we were dealing with a master who has it figured out; every wine earned its place.
Pretty much every winemaker we choose to work with exhibits this kind of quality from top to bottom in their range. Every wine shows off a different angle of the winemaker’s personality and the land they work with. It’s a critical aspect of choosing to work with a winemaker. However, we usually highlight just one or two wines at a time to tell their story, and you get to know them one wine at a time. Well, today I’m offering a full range of wines from Domaine des Sanzay, so you can see the whole picture.
Domaine des Sanzay paints that picture with two colors — Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc — but that picture is so remarkably vivid and nuanced, I had to share it with you all at once.
We had been combing the Loire looking for one good Chenin Blanc and one good Cabernet Franc. At Sanzay, we not only found that, but it had company. The everyday bottles were as carefully made as the single-parcel wines, and there wasn't a weak spot in the lineup, with every wine punching above its weight.
And that is precisely why, when we go back to Sanzay, we just have to bring back a little bit of everything.
Today we're offering six wines — two Chenin Blancs and four Cabernet Francs — that all together tell the full story of what Didier and Céline Sanzay do. If you've only tried one or two of these, this is your chance to take it all in. If you're new to Sanzay entirely, consider this the introduction we've been meaning to give you.
The Whites:
Saumur sits at the heart of the Loire, and produces some of the most satisfying Chenin Blanc in the valley — precise and balanced, aromatic and built for the table. Didier farms his white vineyards organically, in the limestone tuffeau that gives Loire Chenin its characteristic zinginess and generosity.
1) Saumur Blanc 'Les Bazilles' 2025
So good, we waited a year to get our hands on this one the first time. A small hillside parcel of just 0.67 hectares in Montsoreau, overlooking the Loire. Fermented in stainless steel and bottled early to preserve freshness — this is Chenin in its most immediate, joyful expression. Succulent white fruits, golden apple, pear, and citrus on the nose, mouthwatering and precise with a lively acidity and a long, balanced finish.
2) Saumur Blanc 'Les Coinçons' 2024
A step up in weight and complexity. From a single parcel of 50-year-old vines, fermented in large 400L oak barrels with only a fraction of new wood, then bottled in spring to maintain freshness. Yellow fruit, lemon-lime and jasmine on the nose, followed by a juicy, supple texture with a snappy, flinty acidity finish. The kind of white that is at home with a plate of fish tacos, Pad Kee Mao or a tower of seafood.
A Rosé:
3) Saumur Rosé 2025
How could I not include this in the list — It’s my favorite rosé we bring in every year. Cabernet Franc can be refined, structured and even powerful… and it can also be easy, welcoming and lighthearted. This rosé is the latter; fresh, fruity and slurpable, but with balanced and backbone. Succulent red fruit, with a dry and snappy finish that keeps you reaching for the glass.
The Reds:
Cabernet Franc is my desert island wine — and Saumur-Champigny is ground zero. Didier farms 28 hectares across 60 carefully delineated parcels, a level of detail more typical of Burgundy than the Loire. The result is a range of reds that moves seamlessly from weeknight to weekend, from fresh and juicy to structured and cellar-worthy.
4) Saumur-Champigny Cuvée Domaine 2023
The wine Dan adopted as his house red — and I don't blame him. Assembled from several parcels, with an average vine age of 40 years, fermented in stainless steel and bottled young for freshness. Pure, scrumptious Cabernet Franc — bright red fruit, supple tannins, and the kind of easy drinkability that makes the bottle disappear before you've noticed. The sort of wine you'd find at any good Parisian café alongside a steak-frites or roast chicken.
5) Saumur-Champigny Vieille Vignes 2023
Sourced from old vines, cellared a year in neutral oak barrels, bring out a noticeably depth and complexity of the 60+ year old vines. Silky and structured, with the same characteristic red fruit, but more weight on the mid-palate and a finish that lingers. This is the “little black dress” of red wines; a versatile red that works in any situation. Open it an hour before you sit down, and watch it evolve in the glass.
6) Saumur-Champigny ‘Les Dares’ 2022
A single parcel, vinified separately to show what one piece of ground can do. More earth than fruit on the nose — like the forest floor after rain — before the mid-palate opens up with a full, generous wave of red fruit and berry preserves. Power and elegance in equal measure, with a rich, fine-grained tannin on the finish. This is the bottle you bring out when the occasion calls for something to talk about.