The Gospel of Gamay
Early in my wine enjoyment career, I came across Gamay and fell in love with it straightaway. I had the passion of a convert and was not afraid to evangelize on behalf of this grape. Fellow wine-loving friends would side-eye me, saying Gamay was not to be taken seriously. Of course, Beaujolais (the most well-known appellation known for Gamay) elicited two things, neither particularly interesting.
First, Beaujolais Nouveau and all the marketing schtick that came along with that junk. (I’ve been thinking about Gamay because this Thursday is Beaujolais Nouveau Day)
Second, Gamay was often made into gummy, juicy fruit, banana cream, and headache-making juice. The often-used winemaking technique of carbonic maceration will do that to you sometimes. But that was not what I was preaching about.
I was in love with Gamay from all corners of France: Burgundy, the Loire, Savoie… and I was drinking super fine, expressive, and extra delicious bottles that brought joy, pure and simple. In the hands of capable and serious winemakers, Gamay was right in my wheelhouse—something that always lightened the mood and highlighted the meal.
Today's offer is a prime example of the kind of wine I would open to convert a friend to the Gospel of Gamay. Appropriately enough, this one is named Coup de Coeur, the French phrase for Falling in Love.
There are 8 cases of this wine from Domaine de la Paroisse that now grace our warehouse, and it is a must-try if you'd like to sample one of my favorite Gamays I’ve come across over the years.
La Paroisse Côte Roannaise 'Coup de Coeur' 2023
This is Domaine de la Paroisse's welcome mat, the entry point to their lineup of superbe Gamay wines. An assemblage of their youngest vines on the property, which averages over 45 years old (that would qualify as vieille vignes for most vignerons). It's made entirely in tank, and bottled young to preserve its exuberance--fresh and juicy, but refined with a knit-together texture. Big strawberry and red currant fruit leap from the glass, and will remind you of summer, with a refreshing acidity and just a hint of spice and gentle tannins on the finish.