Alpine Treasure: Maso Thaler
Maso Thaler is perched on the edge of a ridiculously steep mountainside, in a part of Italy more akin to Austria or Switzerland. This is the Südtirol, an autonomous region in Northern Italy home to the county's finest, most ethereal wines.
It's a breathtaking drive up to the vineyards — 12 km of countless switchbacks as you climb up to about 800 meters elevation. At the outer bounds of all hospitable wine growing conditions, hanging seemingly from the edge of a cliff is a vineyard less than 4 hectares, which the Motta brothers farm by hand, plant by plant, cluster by cluster. There is no other way to do it; the steep grade (up to 40 degrees in some places) and narrow terrace don’t accommodate tractors, the plants grow low to the ground, and natural yields are tiny.
It’s hard work, but the results are unique and wonderful - among the most stunning wines we import. After all, why break your back to make something ordinary?
When we last visited them, about a year ago, we gave Filippo and Francesco an excuse for a rare break from their work. Amidst the refreshing mountain air and remarkable views across the vast Adige valley, they set the table with mountain cheeses and speck, and of course a warm dish of canaederli--the classic Tyrol dumpling dish. Knowing the work ahead of them that growing season, they took the moment to soak in the calm, and even enjoy a sip or two of wine.The Motta brother’s tireless work has paid dividends — they sell out fast every year to locals in the know. Luckily, for about 10 years now, they have been selling us what they can. Maso Thaler wines remain one of our most exclusive finds, and we have three fine examples of their dedication available to you today.
----------
1) Maso Thaler Sudtirol Sauvignon Blanc 2022
With a mere 1800 bottles produced each year, the Sauvignon Blanc is the rare gem of the Francesco and Filippo's lineup. About 10 days apart in early October the fruit from a half-hectare is picked at two different sugar levels--the first for acidity, and the second for ripeness. It's a unique way of seeking balance in a wine, and adding some richness without sacrificing freshness and verve. Made entirely in stainless steel to preserve its bright, fragrant qualities.
2) Maso Thaler Sudtirol Chardonnay 2023
There's a lot of Chardonnay in the world, but none like this. Planted in 2000 at nearly 800 meters. Warm sunny days and cool, acidity-protecting nights coupled with very low yields give a ripe yet very fresh wine. Six month aging in old barrels and a further six months in bottle occur before release. Aromatically explosive, yet featherlight on the palate.
3) Maso Thaler Sudtirol Pinot Noir 2020
I'd stack this wine up against some of the best Pinots I've ever had, and watch it shine the brightest in a side by side tasting. This is the "true heights" of Italian Pinot Noir. Opening with wild, brambly, black blueberries and blackberries, and continuing with a lush, silky, satiny texture and layer after layer of Pinot-y goodness. This is as perfect of a bottle of Pinot Noir as you'll come across and one of our favorites from Maso Thaler.