Do you Know Chenin Blanc?
I will just put this out there - I love Chenin Blanc.
If I want to start an argument with other wine lovers, I’ll proclaim that Chenin Blanc is greater than Chardonnay in nearly every way. There are strong arguments to be made on either side - and I’ll concede that nothing beats 100% Chardonnay Blanc de Blanc Sparkling wine - but for me, Chenin Blanc delivers in ways no other white wine can.
Chenin is considered one of the most versatile grapes, with wines ranging from bone-dry, with by teeth-chattering acidity levels, to some of the greatest and longest-lived sweet wines out there. And let's not forget Sparkling Chenin!
Chenin is native to the Loire and thrives there in part due to its natural disease resistance, critical to a rainy growing region. Grown in the limestone tuffeau, the wines have the zip and verve of Champagne, with the generous aromatics of honey, ripe autumn apples, and a blooming garden of honeysuckle and gardenia.
Many of you already are Chenin lovers, and we’ve got the goods for your fix. And if you are new to the variety, but ready to dive in, we’ve got four great arguments to make the case for Chenin. A classic from Saumur and three different styles from Montlouis.
Saumur is the very heart of the Loire, and while perhaps better known for Cabernet Franc based wines, there is no denying the sheer pleasure and satisfaction of a chilled white from Saumur.
Wineries here are often loacted in underground caves, the result of substantial quarries in the area. The fine quality of stone was used to build chateaux for French nobles, and even reubild London after the Great fire of 1666. Domaine des Sanzay is no exception, with year-round natural temperature control in their underground cellar.
1) Domaine des Sanzay ‘Les Coinçons’ Saumur Blanc 2023
This pure Chenin Blanc comes from a single parcel of 50 years old vines. Didier Sanzay lets it fermented in large, 400L oak barrels (with only a fraction of new wood) to build richness and texture in the wine, then bottles it early in the spring to maintain freshness. On the nose yellow fruit, lemon and marmalade leap out of the glass, followed by a juicy and supple texture on the palate, with a touch of honey on the finish. Without question, my favorite wine in the warehouse right now.
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Farther upriver, on the southern bank of the Loire, and across from Vouvray, is the smaller appellation of Montlouis, known for sparkling Crémant de Loire, as much as for still wines, both sweet and dry. The bluffs of tuffeau are pockmarked with caves, not only used for cellars, but many dwellings as well. It's in one of these caves that Laura David has installed her winery, and next door, her husband has a bakery - for locals, it's a one stop shop.
Laura has an expansive approach to Chenin, making all styles, depending on the vintage. Her dry wines show the generosity of Chenin, while the Moelleux showcases the exceptional vintages that result in the magical and rare Noble Rot wines.
2) Laura David Montlouis-sur-Loire ‘L’Insolente' 2023
From a small 1.5ha parcel of Chenin Blanc grown on a sandy/clay and flint vineyard not far from her winery. A case study in just how wonderful Chenin Blanc can be when handled correctly. The wine is dry, very fine and soft, yet screaming with fruit like white peaches, quince, and kumquats, with a near-perfect balance between acidity and fruit. You could enjoy this with almost any meal, but Laura recommends something sweet and sour, or even spicy dishes.
3) Laura David Montlouis-sur-Loire ‘Moelleux' 2018
Here we have the rich, honeyed, concentrated, unctuous, and sweet example of Chenin. The intensity means you may only need a sip to two, but the natural acidity and sugar mean you could leave this one open in the fridge for 3-4 weeks and continue to sip on it with no loss of fruit or brightness. Such is the magic of Chenin Blanc, and the mystery of the noble rot called botrytis. While these sweet wines are considered age-able for decades, it won’t disappoint if you open today. Laura leaves this with 34 grams of residual sugar, but Chenin’s high natural acidity keeps this sweet wine tasting pretty darn refreshing. A delight to pair with cheese plates or desserts.
4) Laura David Montlouis-sur-Loire ‘Non-Dosé’
When Laura began her winery back in 2016, she knew she wanted to produce sparkling wine. Starting out, the most affordable option was to cart off a tank of juice to the local cooperative, and 18 months later, she would receive whatever they wanted to give her--meaning an anonymous sparkling wine, blended with who knows what. Now, established and years into running her winery, she does the bottling with her own juice, and only uses an off-site fourniseur for the aging process. This is one of the finest sparkling Chenin Blancs we've come across - a lively, zippy, lemon-tinged number that also sports the kind of textural richness that only Chenin can give. Don't ignore this one!