From the Road: Lunch with Caroline
In a restaurant at the edge of Saint-Paul-de-Fenouillet, left nearly deserted by the heat, Caroline sat in the shade of the terrace, looking without a care in the world as she watched the ice melt in the bucket beside her. I had just barely made it in time for our lunch reservation, desperate not to miss a chance to dine with her.
The backdrop of this little village is the arid and rocky Pyrenees — hardly a likely place for vines to grow. It's a harsh and unforgiving landscape, in inverse proportion to Caroline's warm and generous personality. And despite the inhospitality of the environment, she's been coaxing spectacular wines from these hills for 25 years — and we've been working with her for about half that time. Caroline explained that at elevation, the rainfall from this past winter has caused the vines and the surrounding vegetation to flourish, with green hedgerows and trees buffering the extremes of the current heat wave.
For all her nonchalance, Caroline was thinking about the upcoming harvest. The heat of this spring and summer has likely pushed it forward to the second week of August — just around the corner. But for now, an appetizing plate of Mousseline d'Auberginehad arrived, her ice-cold L’Enverre Blanc was on the table, and there were still a few carefree moments to enjoy before the onslaught of harvest.
By the time the Côte de Bœuf arrived, Caroline was already opening two bottles of red. First, her instantly lovable, lively and fresh Côtes Catalans, holding its own against a large piece of meat. Next, the Côtes du Roussillon Villages, a moodier, richer, undeniably delicious alongside the char of the beef — though it's one I'll be saving for the cooler months ahead.
Both wines have just arrived in the warehouse, and though recent vintages, like 2023, have been high on quality, they are short on quantity. We have just 120 bottles of the Côtes Catalans and 60 bottles of the Côtes du Roussillon Villages. I caution you not to hesitate on either of these.
Côtes Catalanes 2023
Caroline's flagship red — a teeth-staining, fresh and juicy blend of Grenache, Syrah, Carignan and Cinsault, none of it ever seeing the inside of a barrel. The color is an almost saturated purple, and the nose is wild with mint and pepper. On the palate, bright brambly black fruit and crunchy red fruit, with a touch of grippy tannin and a hit of black pepper on the finish. The kind of wine you can reach for at any moment — as fresh and lively in the heat as it is enjoyable on the terrace as the night cools down. Pizza, steak, a bowl of olives — it doesn't matter. This one is always ready.
40% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 25% Carignane, and 5% Cinsault
All stainless steel aging, with no oak for juicy freshness
A touch of grippy tannin, and a hint of black pepper on the finish
Ready to drink now, with just about anything from pizza to a juicy steak
Côtes du Roussillon Villages 2023
While the current temperatures have me reaching for something lighter, I'll be grateful for the reminder of summer warmth as the seasons turn. Caroline's barrel-aged red is the other side of the coin — rich and succulent, made for long cool evenings, whether by a fireside or simply the warmth of good company. Dark, moody fruit on the nose, with torréfaction and baking spice, followed by a round mid-palate full of fig, plum and spice, and a lengthy finish of supple, silky tannins. The perfect bottle to stash away for the moments you'll be longing for the heat.
A 70%/30% blend of Grenache and Syrah
Aged in oak for a rich and supple texture
Dark, moody black fruit, coffee and baking spice on the nose, plum and fig on the palate
A rich, indulgent and tannic red, ready to drink… this fall and winter.
Caroline has been supplying CorksCru with wine from the very beginning — and for good reason. She crafts wines in a timeless manner, from a wild and extreme land, and the quality of her wines is as enduring as the friendship. It's a pity we don't get more of these coming our way, but we'll take everything she can spare.