July Roundup: Favorites Whites from France
I'm finally back in Portland after a month in France — which went by altogether too fast. Between following the World Cup, managing the heatwave with afternoon pool sessions, and visits with new producers and old friends, it was quite a trip. I'll be sharing more stories in the coming months.
In the meantime, I have a hunch that many of you have been living your own best summers — traveling, barbecuing, generally making the most of it — which means you may have missed an email or two from us. That's what second chances are for.
Below is a roundup of some of the white wines we've offered over the past few months — maybe you missed them, or maybe you want to grab a few more bottles before they're gone. On Thursday I'll be doing the same for the reds, so keep an eye out.
Let’s start with my lunch with Caroline Bonville of Mas Karolina, my last visit before heading home. Two of her whites made an appearance before the main course — we have a small stock of both, and they are not to be missed.
1) Mas Karolina Côtes Catalans Blanc 2022
Blended from old-vine Grenache Blanc and Gris with small doses of Carignan Blanc and the local Macabeo, it is at once minerally and quivering, but is also rich, succulent and unctuous with tropical fruits and a delicate saline finish. A hard wine to forget.
2) Mas Karolina L’Enverre Blanc 2021
Caroline’s signature white wine is hauntingly good. A blend of Grenache Blanc (60%) and Macabeo (40%), barrel fermented in neutral barrels for a rich mid-palate texture, without masking the flinty nose, or complex citrus flavors. Intense from start to finish with a mouth-filling texture and lasting finish.
3) Domaine du Tave Cuvée Délice Rosé 2025
Okay, okay… it’s not white, but boy is it refreshing and perfect for summer. When I saw Audrey she was sold out at the winery of this brilliant quaffer, but we have a few bottles still available. Composed from the holy trinity of Rhône grapes: Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre, this is the perfect crowd-pleaser rosé, that entices you with a delicate floral scent with hints of mandarin orange, followed by a mouthful of crisp red fruit, strawberries, and a salty-citrus finish.
4) Domaine Delaunay Muscadet Sèvre et Maine ‘Clos du Paradis’ 2025
From a 4 hectare parcel on a well-exposed south-facing slope of schist and quartz soils. Florent holds this wine on its lees for 18 months — Taste the results and you'll understand why his patience is rewarded: a richness and creamy texture reminiscent of fine Chablis, for a fraction of the price. In the glass, a deep golden hue. On the nose this is perfumed, with autumn apples, Meyer lemon, and ripe stone fruit. On the palate this is pithy, with an elegant sapidity — dense and rich, without the weight.
5) François Baur Pinot Blanc 2024
We knew the moment we tasted this how seriously Thomas took his Pinot Blanc — from one small vineyard plot, grown on schist, farmed to low yields, this stands above the rest. Generous from the first pour — peach, apple and floral notes, with a lively acidity and a dry, cleansing finish. Aromatically gorgeous and delicately luscious, with enough presence to hold its own at the table but enough freshness to be endlessly easy to reach for. The perfect companion for an impromptu picnic, a potluck, a salad, a quiche, or a plate of fried chicken. Basically, whatever you've got going on.
6) Domaine des Sanzay Saumur ‘Les Bazilles’
So good, we waited a year to get our hands on this one the first time. From a small (0.67 hectares) parcel overlooking the Loire. Fermented in stainless steel and bottled early to preserve freshness — this is Chenin in its most immediate, joyful expression. Succulent white fruits, golden apple, pear and citrus on the nose. Mouthwatering and precise with a lively acidity and a long, balanced finish on the palate.