Hiding Beneath a Humble Farmhouse
Vineyards change from week to week, month to month, spring to fall. This time of year the vines manifest a bright green leafy canopy, while summer brings jewel-like golden or deep purple clusters, only to be replaced by dusty yellows and reds in autumn as the leaves prepare to drop.
Vineyards and wineries are places of constant transformation and renewal, from the annual cycle of growth and activity to the generational change over decades. The old ways of doing things get replaced with new technology and new techniques, and the older generation grumbles and resists. Then decades later, a new generation rediscovers the old ways as a counter to the unintended consequences of their predecessor's choices. And so on…
We’ve heard this story many times, meeting with third-, fourth-, or fifth-generation winemakers, who have examples, good and bad, to look back at and learn from. When the younger generation takes over the family estate, it’s most often an exciting time, full of new ideas, new energy, and dedication. The long days in the vineyard, and hard labor in the cellar is a deliberate choice for a 20-something who has a lot more opportunity now than there was for previous generations.
Such is the case for Florent Delaunay. After a few years out in “the real world”, he decided to come back to the family vineyard and dedicate himself to winemaking. In 2020, he took the reins of his family winery, Domaine Delaunay, and began the arduous task of converting the vineyards to organic farming. Since then, his younger brother, Thomas, has also joined the family business.
Dan and I met the Delaunay brothers last July while scouring the Loire for some exceptional white wines. We landed at their discrete and humble farmhouse, where the pair were taking a pause from bottling their latest vintage. Looking inside, the building looked bare, with just a pump and a few hoses on the floor.
“Where are the tanks? Where is all the wine coming from?”
Florent pointed to a set of hatches, set into the concrete floor. Underground. Below us was a series of glass-lined concrete tanks built into the earth, perfect for naturally temperature-controlled wine storage. Their discrete little barn was hiding a dozen underground lakes of vinous delight.
Today’s offer is one of those “lakes” that was being put to bottle that day; a glorious, bright, and thirst-quenching Sauvignon Blanc that will be arriving in time for the hot summer weather, al fresco dining, and the garden’s bounty.
Domaine Delaunay
• ‘La Bonnaudière’ Sauvignon Blanc 2023 •
This classic Loire Valley Sauvignon comes from a small, 2-hectare parcel located in the Goulaine region of Muscadet, planted into the shallow gneiss and granite soils that abut the western end of the Loire River as it makes its way to the Atlantic. Farmed organically, the grapes see a short maceration before getting pressed and sent to those underground glass-lined tanks for a short aging. These neutral and naturally cool storage tanks keep the exuberant fruit of this wine pure, and the acidity lively and present.
Organically farmed Loire Valley Sauvignon
Crisp, fruity, with a kaleidoscope of floral, citrus, and tropical flavors
This is exactly what we look for in a Sauvignon Blanc; A perfect balance of ripe, expressive fruit, no bell pepper, or funky overripe tropical flavors. This is something refreshing and pleasing to open up on a warm day--Give it a try with fresh salmon, a mild curry, or alone as an aperatif; I can’t think of a bad time to open one of these!