Rare, Precious Magic--Châteaneuf-du-Pape Blanc
When we caught up with Laureline Jacumin, of L'Or de Line, in January, we had to ask her about the 2024 vintage. It was a challenging one for a lot of regions in France, and her appellation of Châteauneuf-du-Pape was not spared.
“I lost 80% of my harvest,” she stated bluntly. “We won't have much wine in 2024, but the good news is that 2023 is ready, and it is great!”
She wasn't just hyping me up, either, because she immediately poured some into my glass to confirm for myself.
It's a stark reminder of how precarious winemaking can be--it is first and foremost farming, subject to peculiarities of each year’s conditions. But when the conditions are right, the results are magic.
And magic may be the perfect word for what Lauraline is doing here. In a place known for hot, dry summers and big, chewy wines, she's managed to coax an energetic and fresh white wine that defies expectations. Her golden-hued 2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc is a treat to open, though sadly, a rare and precious treat.
Mostly known for its powerful, spicy, structured, and cellar-worthy red wines, only 7% of the appellation is planted with white varieties. Surprisingly, though, about 1/4 of the L'Or de Line estate is planted with white grapes, in a show of how seriously they take the endeavor. We have just three cases of this bottled spell on offer for you, for the holiday table, or whenever you need a little magic in your life.
L'Or de Line Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc 2023
A true rarity in Châteauneuf for three reasons: First, only 7% of the appellation is in white grapes. Second, this one includes all five allowed grape varieties, including the very rare Picardan. And last, this is one of the finest Rhône whites on the whole dang planet in my mind--so aromatic, rich, and complex, with aromas of honey and spiced citrus peel, with a savory, saline finish.
Laureline makes wines that are rich and structured, sure, but they also have lift, and importantly, they are sunny and bright. A full dedication to organic viticulture (not easy in the southern Rhone) means her grapes are juicy and concentrated, and the resulting wines reflect her farming ethos.
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Knowing the dearth of wine we would be facing, we immediately asked Laureline for some of her phenomenal white, though the total came to just 36 bottles, and we won't be seeing much more until the 2025 vintage is released. She makes only about 10,000 bottles in a good year, and with a wipeout in 2024, we recognized what a treasure we had on our hands. If you've already tried her wines yourself, you understand. And if you want to taste this to know why I'm ranting about it, today is your chance.