The White Side of Bordeaux

Bordeaux might be the most written-about wine region on earth. And for all those words, almost all of them are about red wine. The whites — beyond the sweet, noble-rot wines of Sauternes — rarely get a mention. Yet Sémillon is up there in the pantheon of the world's truly great white grapes; capable of age, complexity, and a richness that few varieties can match.

Which is precisely why David and Laurent Siozard, the iconoclastic twin brothers behind Château Lapinesse, caught our attention in the first place.

Sixth generation Bordelais winemakers, David and Laurent manage to leverage their deep-rootedness in a place of strong traditions into a clear vision of what they want and how they want to do it. In a region synonymous with red wine, more half the Lapinesse vineyards are planted with white grapes, and they farm them all organically — which in Bordeaux is going decidedly against the grain. Yes, they also make rich and complex reds, and their noble-rot Barsac is extraordinary. But it's their whites that reward me every time with delight, complexity and versatility.

Much of the white Bordeaux out on the market is a minefield — either an ocean of bland, characterless bottles at the low end, and eye-watering prices for the famous names at the top. The Siozard brothers hit the sweet spot with serious winemaking, great vineyards and farming, and a price that won't give you pause.

Château Lapinesse

Graves Cuvée Prestige Blanc 2023

The Cuvée Prestige is 100% Sémillon from a 1.3 hectare parcel vines planted on limestone soils, barrel fermented and raised on its lees for 6 months for richness and texture. The nose opens with citrus fruit, white flowers and toasted bread, leading to a full, layered palate of ripe pear and a long, zippy finish. There's a seriousness to this wine — it holds its own at the dinner table and will rewards a little patience in the glass. It’s versatile as well, whether you’re planning on a roast vegatables, a pork chop, seafood, creamy pasta, or anything someone might bring to the potluck.

Out of roughly 1,200 bottles produced each year, we've secured just 84 — and these tend to go quickly. And, if white Bordeaux is a corner of the wine world you haven't explored yet, this is an ideal place to start.